A Little Piece of England in DC

When the economy tanks, we tend to put a hold on our travel plans, and switch to a wait-and-see mode. Yet, for a traveler like me, it is not a good enough reason to stop exploring. It's even a better reason to find ways of "going away" without leaving town. And if I get to use my dollar instead of a strong currency like the euro, even better. So today, I am headed to England...

I heard the arrival of the first Gastro Pub to DC a while back when the owners were still working on putting it together, but New York, Boston and couple other cities already have their own versions. Even Gordon Ramsay opened one in the Northeast during a recent "Kitchen Nightmares" episode (Fox on Thursdays at 9pm)

Common Wealth opened about a month ago, but knowing well that new restaurants need a little bit of time to work out the operations, I postponed my visit, and at the first opportunity after a month, I took the metro to Columbia Heights (Green Line).

If you get out on the Western exit, the Common Wealth Gastro Pub is literally steps away, right behind the Five Guys. If you turn around and walk to the main street, you may never find it as the neighborhood is not very familiar with it yet. We asked the policemen standing on the corner of the same block and they had no idea (note to the owners on local marketing efforts).

Common Wealth has an attractive patio with nice picnic tables and umbrellas. However the real Gastro Pub ambience is inside. With the bar with the TV turned on to cricket, a black and white Union Jack on the wall, leather banquettes lined along the wall with dark wood tables and chairs, the place has a very British feel. It also has plenty of natural light, thanks to the large windows and pleasant but not overwhelming continental style lighting.

If you have any doubts about where this place is from, just one look at the menu will make things clear: ploughman's lunch, bangers and mash, mashed peas with mint. Or, like me, you will get more confused: "Frog in A Puff" "Potted Pork" "Scottish Egg" which will require practically interrogating your waiter. Fortunately, very friendly Keenan is serving us, and with most tables being empty, he has plenty of time to answer my never-ending questions. He is also very timely with the very good bread - which I can't stop eating, and eventually have to ask where the bread is from (Lyon Bakery in Maryland, they said, but it turns out the bakery is in DC). The beer menu is interesting with a good selection of British drafts and bottles, as well as interesting local microbrews. As soon as I take a sip from my "Victory Golden Monkey" I know I made the right choice. It is deliciously hoppy with a touch of sweetness and nice body, which reminds me of more expensive Belgian abbey style ales. As the alcohol in the beer kicks into my brain cells the choice from the menu becomes much easier, and I go with the "Ploughman's Lunch" while my companion finds it hard to turn down a chicken shepherd's pie. The "Trimmings" (or side dishes in our English) are too appealing to pass even though we leave the real adventure to next time and stick to safer options: "Cauliflower Gratine" and "Mashed Peas with Mint" - after all I am introducing my companion to British food (or the fact that there is more to it than fish and chips).

Our order comes out pretty fast (right as we are finishing our second plate of bread) and looks pretty good. The Shepherd's pie has a thin and flaky crust covering the perfectly chickeny stew with a feel good taste of real chicken. The ploughman's lunch is three thick slices of fresh french baguette, well-cured and seasoned Irish ham, two small pieces of cheddar, a small square of Stilton, a spoon of pickled cabbage cut-up like coleslaw, and think slices of pickles. For seasoning, there is a dollop of sharp mustard, and a dollop of prune puree which goes well with both the Stilton and the ham. If it wasn't for the sides, I'd call this a nice afternoon snack or a good appetizer - which is a good value at $9. It is a surprise that this dish is not part of the regular menu as this would make a perfect accompaniment to an after work beer, and great to share with friends, too. All the ingredients are considered the staple of the British kitchen so I am not sure why this dish is a "lunch special" - I hope it becomes a regular item soon...

The coleslaw pickle is fresh with no aftertaste, or unpleasant vinegary flavor. The ham is perfectly balanced, and the presentation is pretty on a nice board which looks like wood but is plastic in reality. In the end, I am very happy with my lunch especially with the accompanying sides. My only complaint is the unexciting plastic tasting cheddar which tastes as if it came from the supermarket shelf, and I wish the sides were a little bit bigger. They are gone by the time I am ready for more.. (but the good news is they are gone, not a bit left of the Cauliflower Gratin or the Mushy Peas) In my opinion, the cauliflower could have used a little bit more seasoning, and most people might think it is a little undercooked even though I like mine on the "al dente" side.

As I take the final sip from my beer I hardly contain myself from smacking my lips and possibly ordering another one. It could make a great dessert, yet possibly send me to siesta right away, plus I am still interested in trying at least one sweet item so I ask for the dessert menu (which are called "Puddings"), the only other place "pudding" is mentioned is for breakfast, and means sausage. Despite the name, desserts are not all puddings, good enough reason to test what's coming out of the Gastro Pub kitchen. I end up ordering the maple tart, which is nice but probably baked too early in the morning or was leftover from the day before. Taste-wise it is ok and the whipped cream balances out the sweetness of the maple, however, the crust is a little too chewy and no longer flaky. The very good coffee makes up for it and before I can order another beer, I am glad to be on my way!

Overall I enjoyed Common Wealth very much and would love to go back over the weekend or in the evening with friends so we can decipher more of the menu items and share a good pub grub. One thing about pubs are they don't feel that "pubby" when they are empty (and this place is practically empty at lunch). Meeting new people, squeezing in through the bar to order another drink, and getting a piece of British humor is all part of the experience - and I am looking forward to it - next time!

Common Wealth: 1400 Irving Street, Washington, DC 20010, Phone: (202)265-1400

ABC Nightline reports from a remote village in Amazon

If you are remotely interested in other parts of the world and how other people live, I hope you watched this episode of Nightline (too bad the video is not online, but you can see photos and story at: http://abcnews.go.com/Nightline/story?id=5850949&page=1).

It was about a remote village in the Amazon basin in Brazil, and how these people live happily with so little based on their principle of "take only what you need" (vs. the "take all you want" mentality of modern life). There were many amazing things mentioned about these people's lives, what they eat, how they work, and how simple their daily loves are with so little (doesn't mean they don't work - men fish, and women dig, carry, and grind yucca roots to make food in addition to daily chores), not to mention how much they laugh. Pretty much everything they use is made of natural elements, and they wear and use very little, never more than what they need. In my opinion, there were many similarities with the daily lives and principles of how Native Americans lived on this side of the continent, and how it all changed after the arrival of the Europeans. Surprisingly, the producers referred to these people as an Indian tribe, which should have been indigenous or native people, but I still appreciate the effort to bring this remote village to our attention... This tribe's lifestyle is being threatened by the impact and growth of modern civilization, and especially the plans for a new dam (reminder, these people eat only fish and yucca, and the dam will stop the flow of the fish) They also showed another tribe where only 6 members are left and after that their language and customs will be extinct as the current members are past child-bearing age.

I am not sure about the producer's claim that this was the most remote village on earth "never touched by civilization" (some tribe members had t-shirts and flip-flops - presumably brought by the 2 members who left to observe the outer world and got this team to the village) but was a very eye-opening documentary in terms of being aware of our world, our past, human values, and especially reminding us how little we need to be happy. After showing the tribe members videos from our world (namely Washington DC, White House, and scenes from the Iraq War - on an IPod screen) one of the tribe members was asked if he'd like to have a more modern life and live a life depicted in the video, he answered that he was perfectly happy with what we had and had no desire for those things. So interesting to see when we all keep wanting more and more of those, the ones who have none were not interested in any of it at all, and they definitely had more laughter in their lives... I applaud Dan Harris for chasing this story and telling it with such passion and awe, I felt as if I was going through the jungle with them and meeting these people myself. I only wish there were more real stories on TV putting real perspective in our lives...

Comforts of an Old Friend at the new Taste of Saigon

Sometimes you gotta go back to the comforts... To relive the joyful moment of finding pleasure in a new taste like you did the first time.

I still remember how much I liked the black pepper sauce the first time I had it at Miss Saigon, at least 10 years ago. I've been back many times since then, but somehow, not in the last year. In the meantime, they moved from the unattractive parking lot-view location to the new Rockville Town Center, and from the simple and basic design to a more sophisticated yet cosy surroundings. But the core remains the same - the menu (Vietnamese food they used to make at the original location in Saigon), the friendly and caring staff, and a desire to make you feel at home. One of the signs is when our server warns us about the firetruck coming out of a building behind us, in order to avoid a sudden startling. Both my friend and I appreciate genuine and caring service so this starts us on a good note.

Since this is a girls' night out after monthly shopping at Costco and Sam's, and it is already 8 o'clock at night, we are looking for some light (but good) food to share, and that's why my feet led me to this place despite a nice walk around the restaurants to see what was going on.

The new decor is more contemporary (in a way you'd see at Thai Restaurants), a little darker than before (original location was practically white), with more wood, enhanced lighting, and no tableclothes. I love the ambience created inside with the acordion doors opening to the patio. Even though there isn't much of a view to talk about, on such a pretty night it is a shame to be inside, so we head out to the comfortable patio. The menu items are the same, but the font is much smaller with everything presented on one page, so my friend has trouble seeing the list especially in the street lamp lighting. Fortunately, I know the menu by heart, at least the items we should have, so when she lets me decide I order without much delay.

In a couple of minutes our food is delivered - one of the joys of Vietnamese cuisine, you get good food cooked to order.

Our pho with beef is perfect as always, but the real deal is always the black pepper sauce (on pretty much anything). My friend is new to Vietnamese cuisine, so I picked chicken which absorbs and reflects the lovely taste of this unique sauce with its subtle flavor. As my friend (who knows her food and flavors) closes her eyes and humms a a good "mmmm" I smile with joy... As good as food can be, it is always an added bonus to share it with those who appreciate it. And it is a crime not to share this dish with others. Couple seconds later, my thoughts are confirmed one more time, when it is my "mmm" moment. Even though I had this meal before, I feel I am on that food cloud again, and wow to come back more often. I wonder how I can live without that taste, and I thank the food fairy for letting me know about this taste. And of course I wonder how many other tastes there are out there I could feel the same way... How long do I need to live to find them all???

If you feel like lingering longer, or want to try something sweet to cleanse your palate, you must try the ice creams. Ginger happens to be my favorite, but you can't go wrong with any pick really. And of course if you like coffee, you muct try the Vietnamese coffee, they take pride even in explaining it...

Miss Saigon may be a couple steps from the center of action at Rockville Town Center, but it is well worth it in my opinion. Take friends, take family, and linger if you like. This is a place where you'll be treated like family, and even though the food is delivered fast, you will not be rushed. Due to Montgomery County laws, the wine list is limited and doesn't leave much to be desired, so on a warm summer night the Vietnamese beer 33 might be your choice of beverage. Even though our glasses of wine were delivered at perfect temperature, it was quite mediocre for my taste, even on a pleasant night outside. However, aside from the wine list and the menu font, I can't find any fault at this place. And these are not big enough for me to skip my black pepper chicken (vegetarians note: there is a very good mock chicken version which tastes very much like the real thing) delivered with friendly service. And one day, if I can find a large enough party to go with me, I may try couple other things. But for the time being, it is all the familiar comforts of Saigon for me... All the way...

A Nice Discovery in Kentlands: Hot Breads

When my feet keeps circling around purposelessly, I know they are leading me to some special place. A morning that began at the small Kentlands farmer’s market without anything finding its way to my canvas bag, was followed by a search for a gas station in fear of being stranded. Just as I was about to give up, but still letting my instincts lead me, I noticed the bright colors of the station across the street. When I pulled up to the station, I saw the real reason for my tires leading me in this direction: “Hot Breads Bakery”

Despite the curiosity of my brain, I managed to satisfy my gas tank first. And as soon as I could, I walked in the Hot Breads Bakery only to face a beautiful, colorful cake display. In various shapes and flavors, most importantly, in slices. When you have an appetite and curiosity like mine, it seems wasteful to spend it on one large cake. So, I could try a number of things in this place, without having to buy big cakes. After a couple of minutes, I turned around to discover the real delicacies, a number of croissants, and puff pastries filled with exotic ingredients like chili, paneer cheese, etc.

But the real winner was behind the display: Thanks to the Indian family who had come in before me, I could see the warm and crispy pockets of tandoori chicken wraps coming out of the oven. And I knew they were exactly what I wanted. Matched with a perfectly balanced mango lassi, they became the best “fast lunch” I had in a long time. You may consider the $6.50 wrap a little on the expensive side especially with the not so large American-style filled to the rim exploding with ingredients size, but you will not look back once you had a bite. The tender chicken is nicely balanced with the spices, and is a nice contrast with the cool lettuce and the crispy yet thin bread wrapping the ingredients in a nice pocket. And of course my mango lassi is the perfect accompaniment.

If you have space left, you may want to try a slice of the many types of cakes. But if, like me, you want to hang on to the happy taste in your mouth, I recommend that you get a couple to go to share with those at home or in the office. That way you can probably match it with a good latte or espresso as well, instead of the runny filtered coffee at the shop.

Hot Breads Café offers a variety of savory and sweet pastries in addition to cakes, cookies, and a number of sandwiches and wraps. Kentlands has a variety of options when it comes to food, however if you are short on time, don’t want to circle for a parking spot, or prefer something easy to grab and go, give this place a try. I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised…

Hot Breads Bakery 7 Cafe: 70 Market Street (Kentlands), Gaithersburg, MD 20878

(301) 977-1919 http://www.hotbreadsmddc.com/

A Pleasant Lunch at Black Market

It had been a while since I had pizza at Black Market. There were always other attractive items on the menu, and recently, the pizza oven was broken. Plus, I rarely find my way there for lunch, and crave for other items during dinner.

But on this lovely summer day, when I wanted to take a friend of mine away from the worries of work environment for his birthday, I led him to the Black Market (he kept asking as I drove "where are we going?" and I kept it as a secret "you're going to love it"). By the time we pulled in, he was pleasantly surprised "this is soo cute!" - as most of the people I've taken to Black Market...

If it wasn’t for his suit, we would probably sit outside, but with the open windows, it was still very pleasant and airy inside. As he talked on his phone, I let the servers know it was his birthday, and no, we didn't get any special treatment, in terms of service or the bill...

A birthday deserves champagne – even though the only glass of sparkling wine you can get at Black Market is cava. Prosecco would be a better choice, but is offered only in a bottle. The good news is the cava is served in tall flutes, probably in about 1,5 serving of what you’d get anywhere else, so you can enjoy it longer.

My eyes look for my beloved grilled octopus salad as an appetizer, but it is served only as an entrée at lunch, and even though I’ve been here for at least 4-5 times in the past 2 months, the server did not offer to make one as an appetizer, which I find a little disappointing.

My friend picked the lentil soup, and we proceeded with two orders of pizza. The server was now alive, telling us that the pizza kitchen was new, and that they’d like to get our feedback.

My friend was happy with his soup, and we both were very satisfied with the thin, crispy pizzas that were delivered as soon as his soup was cleared. His margherita was a nice lace-like design of thin slices of mozzarella, tomato and basil. My sopressata pizza was a spicy concoction of hot peppers, thin crust, and a perfect sprinkle of cheese. If one must find any fault with those pizzas, it can only be the size. There is no way one can eat a whole pizza alone for lunch, so I would suggest that you share perhaps a salad and a pizza with your companion, especially if you are planning to have dessert.

There is always an ice cream or gelato of the day at Black Market, and a couple other specials. Our mango panna cotta was a good refresher for a summer day, yet was not the classic Italian dessert we were looking for. But on a nice summer day, a fruity milk dessert is the perfect ending to a laid back summer lunch, especially when accompanied by a good Illy coffee. Only if we could have stayed all afternoon and enjoyed the tender light of the sun peeking through the leaves of the mature trees for a walk… But work awaits, and Black Market deserves many more visits…

Tackled in a Box, by way of Maine

“A cute Main Lobster Shack” is the description many articles I read about this place said. "Fresh fish prepared simply" emphasized the most. It tantalized my curiosity, so at the first opportunity I could, I find my feet leading me through the door of Tackle Box in Georgetown. It is almost noon, yet, there is no line, and only one young father having lunch at the communal table with his daughter sleeping in the stroller... I guess this is a good sign of desirable noise levels in the busy neighborhood of Georgetown.

The decor is that of a shack, with nice picnic tables designed as a communal table, and couple of stools lined up by the window. The ordering process is very simple - a big and colorful blackboard tels you the options and since there is one price for a typical platter, all you need to focus on is what to pick. The Main Meal is probably what most people order - $13 gets you one fish (or another seafood choice) done crispy or grilled, one sauce, and two side dishes. You can also get rolls ($19 for lobster roll, definitely not Maine prices!), appetizers (clam chowder, peel-and-eat shrimp, etc.), or other items like grilled hot dogs or chorizo. I guess there are people who don't like seafood in this world... Oh, they also have Lobster Pot - which, if I lived closeby, I'd be ordering quite often.

I like my fish grilled in general, so the blue fish seems to be the best choice. Sweet potato fries, grilled broccoli, and grilled lemons complete my order. The process is easy, and you can sit and watch your food being cooked. The food is served – I presume – in biodegradable disposable plates. The guy cooking the food, even though attentive, doesn’t seem to care much, and I am not sure if it is his attitude or the minimal effort he puts to it, but my plate turns to be less than what I expected. Grilled broccoli has no flavor other than broccoli, and it is a little too raw, even for someone who likes her food on the less cooked side. The fries are warm but seem to have absorbed a little too much oil then what I'd ahev liked. The fish seems fresh, but a little bit of salt and pepper probably would bring out the flavor. Plus, maybe because I was there before noon, I guess they lit the grill for me, so it lacks the marks and the crispiness from the grill on one side. The grilled lemon certainly could have been put on fire a little earlier, I am not sure if my inattentive cook forgot to time it right, or if it is supposed to come “warmed up” as opposed to “grilled”.

Overall, I was happy to have a nice piece of fresh fish for lunch, and I'd probably go back to try other things. I'd definitely go for more "juicy" sauces" as the grilled fish on its own doesn't have that much flavor, neither does broccoli (but I heard another customer raving about the grilled asparagus).

As I was getting ready to leave I saw more people coming in to give it a try, which is a good thing. I think this place will deliver better food when it is buzzing because then they don't have to play with the temperatures, and if that happens, I see that it could become quite popular. For now, I hope the lack of crowds are because of my visit in mid-August. And I hope it is the reason for my fish being cooked on a not so hot grill at the beginning. I think Tackle Box is worth another try and another chance, because it has a unique promise in our "frozen or expensive fish" city. If the owners pay a little more attention to training, and if the cooks pay a little more attention to instructions, I think we may have a “cute Maine lobster shack” to keep in Washington.

Tackle Box: 3245 M St NW, Washington DC 20007

Phone: 202.337.TBOX (8269) http://www.tacklebox-dc.com/

The Best Delay Ever

I love it when lame and boring days turn into surprisingly memorable ones, and today seems to be one of them.

After a disappointing trip to San Antonio (too touristy) and Austin (uninteresting downtown and too short of a time to explore further), I was on a full flight heading back home. Knowing that I had a two-hour layover in Atlanta, I had called a friend of mine so we could catch up at the airport. I am not a big fan of Atlanta airport, as a matter of fact it happens to be one of my least favorite airports, but I am always cheered up at the possibility of catching up with a friend. However, by the time we got to Atlanta, our pilot announced that we had to circle and wait for a bad storm to pass... 30 minutes later, we were still circling the skies over the busiest airport in the world with a number of other planes, and facing the possibility of being diverted to another airport as our fuel levels were getting lower. "Great," I thought, "another long day at the airports, and possibly sleeping at an airport motel in Alabama" (the only positive thought was the fact that I'd never been to Alabama, and maybe this would tempt me to rent a car and drive back to DC...)

Fortunately, we were one of the first planes accepted for landing as soon as the storm passed, so when we hit the tarmack and I turned my phone on, I was expecting a message from my friend saying "sorry, I see that you are delayed, and am not going to make the trip to see you for 5 minutes" To be fair to him, these were my directions - who wants a friend to drive during rush hour traffic if there isn't enough time to catch up?

To my surprise, my friend had a different plan with specific instructions: "Your flight to DC is delayed 2 hours, met me outside the terminal" To a regular traveler, this may not mean much (or may sound like a major hassle as involves going outside the the security line and trying to come back), but my friend knows me well... Knowing what the message meant, I had a big smile on my face and was out the terminal within 10 minutes (one of the advantages of checking bags - you don't have to carry them around!)... and he was there to pick me up ... in his convertible!

By this time, the storm had passed and even though it was a little humid, the temperatures were bearable, so, of course my answer to his question of "should we put the top down?" was a big "YES!"

Friends who know who you are and what you like are always valuable... And this friend of mine knows how much I like cars, driving, and how I am fascinated by convertibles (especially with BMW convertibles, but that's another story) He sometimes happens to be on the receiving end of my never-ending driving trip ideas ("The South," cross-county, Northwest, New England, Denmark to the bottom of Italy, etc...) and I enjoy hearing his adventures with his convertible of 8 months. As a result, when we pull out of the airport with the music blasting (Blue October - happens to be one of my favorite bands) and my hair dancing in the wind, he knows why I am screaming with joy! I just feel like driving all the way to DC now, or whereever... Frankly I don't even care where we are going or how long, all I want to do is enjoy the wind, the music, the sun, and the feel of the road. I know my friend is watching me with the corner of his eye and having fun, because it is easy to make me happy and I don't hide it when I find it... At one of the red lights, he asks "so, what do you want to eat?" and when I answer "Eat? Who wants to eat?" he knows he's created a new devil in me. He always jokes about how I'm always ready to eat, and hungry almost at all times (which is true). If I cannot think of food, this must be really good - and he knows it.

Oh well, he's a proud guy with a convertible Jaguar, and I gotta give it to him after seeing the way people look at me. Most women give me the look of "oh, you lucky girl!" in a very different way than I've ever seen before. I am the same person I was 20 minutes ago, but suddenly I have become the "lucky woman who got a guy with the Jag" (envy). As for the guys, I don't know if they even notice me - they give my friend the "you lucky guy" look because of the car. Personally, I don't care for any of it... As good as the car feels and handles, the thing that makes me smile is the feel of a solid convertible (and a great sound system) more than the fact that it is a Jaguar. And ... I find that my heart still beats for a BMW, convertible or not...

When you know what you want, there is no comparison, only affirmation... But that shouldn't stop us from trying and exploring, should it?

P.S. Update on July 14: Every time I see a convertible Jaguar now, I remember that day and smile. I can feel the sun on my face, the wind in my hair, and Blue October blasting in my ear... How do we create memories that last for a long time and make us smile time after time???

Is everything big in Texas?

Since I started my discovery of the U.S. I wanted to go to Texas. Maybe it is the image of the "Dallas" TV series I had watched in my childhood, maybe it is because Texas is the largest state in the union, maybe it is because people who grew up in Texas seem to have a bond the rest of us cannot understand. After the way I was impressed with Colorado (which may be my favorite state amongst the 25 I have seen) and understood what it meant to have lived or to have seen Colorado, I've been curious to see if there was such a feel to Texas. Knowing Colorado made me a better person and gave me a lot of new perspectives in life, I wondered if Texas had anything to offer in a similar way... Whether I was missing something "big" for so many years.

When you have high expectations, generally you end up with disappointment, and I think that is what happened to me. I didn't expect to find Colorado in Texas, but I expected to find something that defines Texas and Texans in a way that would make the rest of us envious. Well, in three days, I didn't find much of it.

The top experiences were the Blue October concert (who happen to be from Texas) in New Braunfells (which is located in between Austin and San Antonio) and an unexpected guided tour at the historic Driskill Hotel in Austin (more on that later - but make sure to ask for Glenn if you go). Other than that, the area we covered were pretty unimpressive for me, mostly flat with some elevation, but not much to write home about. Yes, I saw a couple longhorns happily grazing across the land, and some cows spread around the pasture... And I found the area we passed to be much more green than what I expected. Another positive - it rained pretty much every day cooling off the temperature for a little while, which, to my surprise, was not as bad as I thought.

NEW BRAUNFELS

New Braunfells area is mostly for water activities in the lake, and of course, tubing which seems to be the state sport in the summer in Texas. Since we had only about an hour before the concert, we passed on all that, but I kept my eyes on the kids happily tubing down the river. The venue was quite large for a small open air stage, and as the sun set and the stars appeared, it became quite cosy and intimate. I won't say much about the concert since I am a big fan of Blue October, and you can find detailed reports on many websites. (OK, a litle recap: as usual, they were incredible on stage touching all kinds of emotions and tantalizing all our musical senses. I must also mention that, in order to honor July 5, they started the concert with a violin solo of the Star Spangled Banner, which always makes me emotional knowing how much this country and being an "American" means to me.)

SAN ANTONIO

San Antonio is much bigger than I had expected - and the best part is: it is alive. When we arrived at our hotel around midnight, the streets were still full of people walking around, singing, and going to clubs. There aren't that many cities in the US where you can go out comfortably for an exploration tour after midnight, and it was nice to be able to do it for a while before I heard the call of the comfortable bed.

However, when you wake up to San Antonio, you quickly realize that it is primarily a tourist town. If you take out the Alamo, pretty much everything is made for tourists, and overall it reminded me of a small Las Vegas - without the casinos of course. We stayed at the Hyatt Regency, which I would highly recommend mostly due to its location - between the Alamo and the Riverwalk, you literally walk out the door to the canal. Yes, it happens to be a convention hotel with the regular offerings of a chain, but I found the rooms comfortable and tasteful (maybe because it appeals to my "fresh and contemporary comfort" tastes). We had a view of the Alamo which made it a little bit more special. The rooftop has a small pool which seems to be a good spot for families with young kids - and a nice place to look around and put things in perspective.

Other than that, for a more personalized service and less convention feel, I'd recommend The Watermark Hotel. It is also on the Riverwalk but offers a more intimate and exclusive experience.

As busy as it may be, El Mercado (Market Square) probably is the most interesting place in San Antonio to spend the Sunday morning. One thing I loved about it is the fact that you see as many locals as tourists, and a lot of Mexicans shopping at the cute little stores. You can't go wrong with the two big restaurants on the main road (Mi Tierra - which also has a bakery if you achieve to get by the door,- and La Marguerita). They are owned by the same company and offer pretty much the same Mexican fare. The quality is not very impressive, but the operation is - as the door is almost never shut with constant movement of customers going in and out, and a waiting list of 30-45 minutes. Watch out for the margaritas - they may not be the best you have had, but depending on how long you waited, they quench the thirst very fast! (however, due to the volume I believe they are made with a mix, and are way too sweet for me) If you prefer to bypass the restaurants, I highly recommend the street vendors, especially the handmade gordita stand (which also has a line, but moves fast), and definitely the roasted corn. It probably was the tastiest corn I ever had!

The food by the Riverwalk is average, and the beer is not as cold as it should (probably it is hard to keep up with the demand). So don't expect much, and simply enjoy the view - until you can no longer take it and feel like running up to the hills! I found that the best time to experience the Riverwalk is mid-afternoon, you have the sun filtering through the leaves, a pleasant breeze, and not a constant flow of people pushing their way through. During that time, the restaurants and cafes are open but are not busting at the seams yet, and the servers are not running at full speed making you feel exhausted just at the sight of it. You can sit back and enjoy a nice pint of beer or a glass of margarita without people buzzing through, and then you can slowly find your way back to the hotel for a quick nap in order to get ready for the craze of the night.

Of course you need to pay a visit to the Alamo - I'd say either early in the morning or just before it closes. The line was long pretty much all day, and it is not easy to stand in the middle of a plaza in the scorching Texan heat. The exhibits are interesting, and if you get someone to tell you what Alamo is all about (like we did, with one of the National Park Guides in the shaded area behind the building) it certainly becomes more meaningful. [just of the story: Alamo wasn't the last battle that made Texas independent. Because of the bravery of people who defended the Alamo - they died to protect it - the people who fought the next battle had extra inspiration to fight and lead the way for the Texan independence. The name of that battle? Anybody??? The answer is "San Jacinto." Oh by the way, did you know Texas was an independent country between the US and Mexico for 10 years? Another trivia - did you know Texas's first flag was designed after the Mexican flag - they simply took out the eagle-?]

I can't recommend any restaurant in San Antonio since we were there for a short time and I wasn't impressed with much... except for the Guadalajara Grill (in the historic Villita area right behind the Hilton). This is your very down to earth Mexican eatery, practically run by two Mexican guys and a cook in the back. They offer real Mexican cooking ("cochinita pibil" anyone?) affordable prices, cold beer, and plenty of good humor in the decor that keeps you busy until you get your food. Don't think this is a whole in the wall shack, this is a great casual place with bar, table, and outdoor seating, and they have been in business for more than 15 years. They are dedicated to authentic Mexican food - so much so that they bring the chiles and the spices from Mexico! If you go to San Antonio, you must go here to kick back and enjoy unpretentious but real home cooking... (http://www.guadalajaragrill.us/) I don't know about the rest, but this place I can go back to!

GRUENE (pronounced "Green")

This is a cute little town in the hills and has the biggest dance hall in Texas. Has a couple of nice casual restaurants (one with views of the river), couple antique shops, and interesting knick-knack shops. It is a nice place to stop at, but if you have bigger and better things to do, you don't need to get out of your way.

AUSTIN

How to say? Where to begin? It may be the capital of Texas, but this is a pretty small city, especially downtown feels like a small town (except for the new and tall skyscrapers). The main area can easily be discovered on foot but... there isn't that much to discover. Naturally you can visit the Capitol building (designed after the nation's Capitol building in DC) and the Texas History Museum. And you can check out the many clubs and restaurants. But during the 24 hours I spent there, I had a difficult time finding a "sense of place" (which is very unusual for me). The best part probably was the walk by the river, it is really pretty, green, and natural. The sunset is pretty, and there are many people running, walking, biking, plus the rowers on the river create pretty vistas.

The best place to stay undoubtedly is the Four Seasons. With the beautiful vistas of the river, manicured lawn, and comfortable chairs on the deck, it offers the usual comforts and high standard of The Four Seasons. Across from it are a number of well known restaurant chains such as Roy's, Flemming's etc. You'll probably be very happy if you go to Austin for business and stay in this area. Of course, you can also walk around and discover further. There are a number of nice restaurants (my favorite was Cuba Libre - casual but elegant, great martinis and appetizers as large as a typical entree, and the largest rum selection in Texas, with rum flights, too. http://www.cubalibreaustin.com/) plenty of clubs, venues, and bars to chose from to listen to live music - even on a Monday.

Another great place to visit is the Driskill Hotel. If you are a history buff, or like historical experiences, this is the place for you. Even for someone like me (I prefer contemporary, fresh, and comfortable design) this would be a unique hotel to stay at. So much history, and an opportunity to travel back in time. If you choose not to stay here, you must go for a breakfast or lunch at the beautiful 1886 Cafe, or at least a drink at the bar. And when you do, make sure to ask for Glenn, whose official title is the director of engineering, however, he is one of the best guides I have ever seen. He'll open each and every door for you, tell you all the details of the incredible artwork, who is who in the photos, who sat in which chair, and what happened in each room, and you will have a lot of appreciation for not only the hotel, but probably for the history of Texas. And you'll probably like Austin so much more when you leave the hotel...

Still, for the first time in a very long time (OK, I need to admit, I don't know if I ever had this feling before) I didn't feel like staying. I didn't have long list of places I didn't get to, and I didn't leave my curiosity behind... I am sure Austin has a lot more to offer in the surrounding areas and in the hills, but for now it is not on my list of "places to go back to as soon as I can." Of course if an opportunity rises to explore further (or meet Lance Armstrong) I'd be back...

A little lost at West End Bistro

You should never turn down an offer to eat at a famous chef's restaurant, even when he's not in the kitchen. Even when he's not on the same continent... So I am ready to check-out Eric Ripert's West End Bistro, especially after so many months of opening, when all the issues should have been cleared out.

Eric Ripert is known for his perfectionism, the way he brings flavors to the table as fresh as possible and without disguising them. When he brought his touch to Washington DC, we all foodies got excited and had to try what was cooking in his kitchen, so the place got popular fast. It is refreshing to see a Ritz-Carlton hotel shed its traditional layer, and present something different than what has always been the same. West End Cafe is lighter, brighter, livelier, and cheerier than its precedent. Most importantly, it is much more casual so that we don't have to check our attire, go back home to get a jacket (on this humid July day!) and change our behavior as if we are going to our grandma's house. We can make a stop after a casual day at work and not be too concerned about it (disclaimer - my casual day at work still consists of nice clothes because I like to look nice. If your "casual" day means torn jeans and flip flops, this is not the place for you) For a change, I don't feel out of place with my sleeveless black top, and I don't see anybody with a jacket or tie, which is a great sign.

We are seated at one of the banquettes by the window, which may or not be a good thing depending on the day. The view is not particularly attractive - another busy Washington DC street, with people walking by and possibly glancing at what you are eating. Window seats may be more interesting for kids of certain age due to the Fire Station across the street, but I definitely would not suggest that this is a kid-friendly restaurant. It certainly is a grown-up place. One thing nice about the window seats are the fact that they have more light, and more space. The other tables across from the window seem too cramped, and based on experience at my previous visit, too close to hear other people's conversations (and touch their elbows).

The decor is much lighter than one would expect at a Ritz-Carlton (which they clearly tried to distinguish from, there is a separate entrance from the lobby) with striped banquette seats, bare tables (i.e. no tablecloth), and whimsical china. The open kitchen and elevated ceiling makes the atmosphere lighter, even though I can't figure out who came up with those lights - totally in the wrong place.

The service is friendly still not overly enthusiastic, our bread and butter is delivered almost instantly and we get the usual question of "sparkling, flat or tap water?" Upon ordering sparkling, I am expecting something nice and fancy, at least different, but we get the same old San Pellegrino I buy for $1.29 at the market. It makes me wonder if the menu has an Italian twist - which it clearly does not, except for the tuna carpaccio and the tagliatelle bolognese. I would have loved to see either some interesting bottle, or even better, one that gets bottled on premises (see my blog on Poste) helping both the environment and my pocket - I bet we'll go through these bottles pretty fast, and get charged an-arm-and-a-leg for it.

They are quick to get our beverage order (which is a Caymus Conundrum, a very reliable choice, and to my surprise presented at the right temperature as opposed to my last experience) but not as attentive with the food order. And they forget the glass with ice one of my companions ordered until after we are almost done with our entrees.

Menu is nicely presented with beverages on one side, and food on the other. It has plenty of options to tantalize your desires and make you wonder. Being a big fan of rabbit and finding it so rarely on the menus today, I settle on the rabbit rillette, yet leave my heart divided between the Soft Shell Crab and the Fried Poached Duck Egg Salad. Fortunately, one of my companions ordered the salad so I can see what I missed. As soon as my rillette is delivered I am not impressed. It said apple, radish, and celery salad. I don't see any radish, and I don't see any salad. All I see is rabbit pate smeared on two slices of toasted bread with apples and celery julienned over it. The taste is fine, but nothing to write home about, especially in the shadow of the Fried Poached Duck Egg Salad, which looks exciting and intriguing with the perfectly balanced egg cooked to perfect consistency so it oozes on top of the asparagus salad when you break into it. That's what I want on my plate!

Once the appetizers are cleaned out, we are ready for our entrees, which take a while to come out. I know my fish won't take that long, my companion's roasted chicken should have already been cooked, and the carpaccio won't hold the order up. To my surprise, the fish and the chicken are delivered first, and about 3-4 minutes later, our companion gets his carpaccio. And it doesn't look like it was just made. I feel sorry for him - such a disappointing dish to follow a wonderful appetite tantalizer? Good thing we ordered the mac-and-cheese and the fries!

I think I've ordered the best entree at the table - skate with brown butter sauce and braised endives. Skate definitely is worth writing about, and makes me slow down in order to extend the joy of eating it (which doesn't happen that often). As the piece gets smaller on my plate, I cherish every bite of it and the lemony caper sauce that came with it. The endives are overcooked, almost to a tasteless point, and one of them is burnt at the bottom. But I happily munch along, adding some of the fries to my plate which are a better companion. They are crisp light, and perfectly balanced with a touch of spice. Mac-and-cheese with its crunchy breadcrumb topping and the slight meatiness from the ham is a close-second. If you are a fan of the classic mac-and-cheese, this may not make you happy, but I am a big fan of creative mac-and-cheese options, so couple more servings find their way to my plate. Yet, I am not sure, if I'd be back for mac-and-cheese alone. As for the rest of the table, chicken looks uninteresting to me, so much so that I don't even have a desire to taste, which is unsual. The stuffing is cut in big rectangles, raisins are sprinkled in between, and the chicken is cut up in chunks underneath. From the expression on my companion's face, and the fact that he's left about half of his dish on his plate, I know he's not too impressed either. The carpaccio is gone fast probably because my companion is hungry, but he never mentions a word of it, which tells me there's nothing to talk about.

By the time we get to dessert, we have a totally different server pouring new bottles of water, and he is as serious as a worker at a nuclear plant, precisely focusing on the glasses but paying no attention to us. Pot de creme is exactly what you'd get anywhere, a little too cold for me, and I'm not sure how fresh it is. It tastes as if it was made a day or two ago. The "lemon tart" has very little lemon cream in it, it is basically a blueberry pie with lemon cream as a base, and the shell is hard as a rock - confirming my theory of desserts being older than a day. Probably the best sweet in-house is the rice pudding, unpretentious, simple and definitely fresh. It is slightly warm, not as creamy as it should (but I like mine on the lighter side), and nicely balanced with a touch of cinnamon and nutmeg. I like that it is not overly sweet which most desserts are in this country, but if you are used to the typical "American-sweet" desserts, you may be disappointed.

Overall, I would go back for the skate and the fries, and I'd love to try that poached fried duck egg salad. But other than that, the service is unimpressive, food is not consistently exciting, with a number of hit-or-miss items on the menu. From past experience, I know the tagliatelle bolognese is a dish to go for, as well as the Chesapeake Bay Stew (hoping they are delivered at the same level consistently). I know a number of people who go to West End for the burger, but for my money, there are plenty of good burgers around town without having to pay $18 plus $7 for the fries. This certainly is an expense account place where the staff isn't that interested in taking care of you or making sure you return. If you don't care what the bill is, go give Eric Ripert a try, but if it is your money, there are plenty of other places around town to leave with a happier stomach and better appreication of yor business.

P.S. In case you are wondering, we paid close to $300 without the tip, which in my mind is a little too high for what we got (or didn't!)

West End Bistro: 1190 22nd Street, N.W., Washington D.C. 20037 (located in the same building as The Ritz-Carlton) Phone: 202-974-4900 http://www.westendbistrodc.com/

For the Love of Gelato

When you know what you want and you want the real thing, it is hard to be satisfied with anything else. I don't think I had ice cream the whole summer of 2007 since my favorite gelato place was closed due to renovations at the hotel it is part of. Every time I passed by, I glanced and hoped that one day, it would be back... And finally, it is: Aromi d'Italia ("Aromas of Italy") on Wisconsin Avenue in Bethesda.

I am not a big fan of hotel outlets, so I didn't stumble upon this place by chance. Rather, I discovered their primary operation in Annapolis, at the harbor (yes, it is that place right next door to Phillips Seafood. Yes, it is the place where you can see many colors and types of gelato through the window - they also have great coffee and pastries) and have been hooked since them. No matter how full I am when I am in Annapolis, Aromi d'Italia deserves a visit, and the tough part is choosing from all the flavors - one reason to bring all your friends and order as many flavors as possible! There used to be days I thought of jumping in the car just to get my favorite gelato, but during the summer the traffic towards the bay and the long delays make the trip unworth it in my opinion.

Imagine my surprise, when, couple years ago I was driving towards Bethesda with my gelato craving still unsatisfied, and noticed the sign of Aromi d'Italia at the corner of my eye. "I must be dreaming" I thought - food cravings do that to me at times, they get so strong I can smell the food I am craving for, or can feel the texture of it in my mouth or on the tip of my fingers. Of course I made a quick U-turn and rushed to the store. It was a small and cozy place, with couple coffee canisters on the shelves, small counter to order food, and a few tables tucked by the window. And of course there was a colorful display of gelato (and some cookies and pastries to the side) which I was immeditately attracted to. I remember being instantly happy and ordering a nice portion of straticiella and tiramisu. And I remember closing my eyes and going to the "mmm mmm mmm world".

Since this little cafe was on my way home from work, it became a regular stop many days, especially during the long and frustrating ones - there is so little a good cup of gelato can't take away!

I introduced many friends to the store, and it became my regular gift for dinner parties. Pleasantly I watched people around the table first complain they had no space for dessert (thanks to many talented hosts) and then gobble up the corners of their dishes... My proudest moment was when I took it to an Italian chef's house and offered it on the side of his delicious pie (always a safe bet - present your gift as an addition to the menu, in case people don't like it)... And once again the gelato box was cleaned up with lots of good remarks.

On couple of occasions, I brought the take-out boxes home hoping that I'd save myself a trip or two to Bethesda. But no matter how much I tried, and no matter what size box I got, the gelato was gone within 2 days, and generally in two servings. Eventually, I decided it was not the best way to handle it and made many happy trips to my litte gelato place...

Then unfortunately, one day... the little gelato heaven was closed!!! I had never seen the place busy, but it didn't look like they were suffering either. When I stopped the car and rushed to read the sign I found out that they were closed due to the renovations at the hotel and did not have a definite opening date. That was when I needed a big take out box of gelato and lots of cold water...

Many months went by, and my little gelato place didn't open... The sign got old, and the building got a new facelift... Still, the little cafe didn't come back. Until one day... Finally... I noticed the chairs back on the patio and some preparation inside. I hoped and waited that my little gelato place would be back.

I am happy to report that it is! Today finally I went with a friend of mine. Despite the fact that we were in another part of Bethesda and we had plenty of options to choose from, and despite the fact that he had an injured foot, I didn't want to go anywhere else. As passionate as I am for food, I am not cruel, so I asked him to wait for me, picked him up by car and drove at my gelato place - not even half a mile away. I was so excited I almost parked illegally, but I am glad I didn't. As soon as I walked in, I was in that familiar place and with a big smile on my face. Everything looked the same but newer and fresher. The gelato case was in its place, and as usual, many flavors were half empty - good sign that people know this place. Starving as I was, I went for a sandwich first (grilled chicken, roasted red peppers, creamy pesto, and oozingly warm cheese stuffed in a fresh and warm bread... When was the last time you got excited about a sandwich??? I know this won't be the last one for me!) and of course gelato to top it off. Bacci (which means "kisses" and includes chocolate and hazelnut) and straticiella (which is vanilla gelato with chocolate sauce strands broken up in the mix, hence the name "strands") is a good way of getting as much as you can in one scoop. Of course you also have to try chocolate, vanilla, the fruit flavors, and the pistachio... While we were enjoying our gelati, other people walked in and out, with that familiar smile on their faces. I know I will be back to this place many times, espcially because I can't keep a stash of it in the freezer. If you go, try the gelato for sure, and the sandwiches are great as well. If you happen to pass by in the morning, stop by for good coffee, and fresh pastries. Whatever you get, you'll get friendly smile with it, and a willingness to please the customer... Ask for a taste of the flavors you won't get today, and make a list for your next trip. You won't be disappointed.

P.S. Did you know they have a branch at the Italian Embassy? That on its own should be sign of how good their gelato is!

Aromi d'Italia: 8120 Wisconsin Ave, Bethesda, MD 20814 (at the Doubletree Hotel, couple doors down Guapo's) Phone: 301-654-9669 www.aromiditalia.com

Heavenly Lunch At Poste

When was the last time you had fun at lunch? You looked at the menu and you had trouble selecting between 2 or 3 items? Unless you go to an upscale, famous-chef restaurant, whereever you go, the menus seem to be the same: cobb salad, ceasar salad, burger, BLT or club sandwich, chicken salad, grilled chicken sandwich, maybe some fish, maybe some pasta... If the food is interesting, generally you are in an ethnic restaurant, but the decor and ambience seems to be bare, service is inconsistent, and you give up the comfort or ability to converse without shouting. And forget about relaxation. A lot of action, noise, people coming in and out, staff running around struggling to feed as many people as possible... When was the last time you "relaxed" at lunch, let your hair down, and wanted it to take longer so you can enjoy the food, the light, the conversation with your food-mate and even considered ordering dessert so you can linger just a little more?

I found such a place in the middle of the city... At Poste...

If you walk through the Hotel entrance on F Street (Hotel Monaco), you pass an interesting lobby and enter a pretty room full of natural daylight, cleverly placed seating with interesting but not over-bearing decor... And ff you come through the 8th Street entrance, you leave the city behind as soon as you reach the courtyard. And you enter a new world through the glass doors of this "Modern Brasserie."

On a comfortable day, sitting outside may be a great escape for sun and fresh-air-deprived office workers. Poste not only offers cute and casual tables on the terrace, but also lounge-y sofas and chairs in the shade. However, if it is one of those 85 plus degree temperatures with high humidity (and especially if you spent the last couple of hours walking around the city like I did) you'll be looking for a cool spot and quick, attentive service. Thankfully, the main dining room also has plenty of natural daylight, so you don't have to leave your heart outside.

The booths and tables are cleverly positioned with some view of the pots and pans hanging in the kitchen. If you are lucky (or interested) you will also get a view of the colorful preserved lemon jars on one side. The ceiling is high and airy, with simple and tasteful design all around. Staff is attentive and enthusiastic. Due to two entrances, you may not meet a host right away, but they are quick to cover the distance and welcome you. In the meantime, you can enjoy the light-filled room, carefully placed mirrors, and the simple open kitchen with the paper cones lined up for European style "pommes frittes" which make me think I am in Europe or New York. No matter what, I am definitely in the right place.

Once we are seated, the cheerful server comes by right away to ask for our water preference. Having burnt many times with exorbitantly expensive fancy water bottles, I am ready to go for tap, but my companion is faster than me and orders sparkling, which I have to be thankful for, as I am about to have one of the best water experiences in the city. Before I can ask, the server says "great! lime wedges as well?" - I like this place already! Within a minute, we have a large botle of sparkling water which tastes very good. I can't take my eyes off the pretty bottle, and I am surprised to see there is no source, but just a website and an 800 number. When the server comes back to get our order, I ask about the source of the water, and he tells me "it is right here! We have our own bottling unit here." It is hard to believe but too good to pass. The best part of it is they keep filling both our glasses and the bottle as both I and my companion keep guzzling it down (in the end, we'll find that we were charged only $2.5 per person for almost 3 full-size bottles we had.)

How often do you read the menu at lunch? This is a place to take a moment to read it, to make sure you are not missing anything. Once you read it, if you are like me, you narrow it down to 3-4 items, then you read them again and consult with your companion. In my case, I consult with my companion not only to get his or her opinion, but also to make sure we are not ordering the same thing. I hate looking around the table and seeing all of the same, no matter how good they may be. Since I like to see and taste as much as possible, there are times I will order my second or third choice just to make sure there is variety on the table. At Poste it is not an issue... I am almost tempted to invite others to our table so we can order even more!

After a long glance at the menu, I am able to make a decision and order the Butter Lettuce salad and the Smoked Duck Reuben, only after finding out that my companion is interested in the gazpacho and the soft shell crab BLT - the other top choices I was considering. I make a mental note to try the local goat cheese and beet salad; the garden arugula salad with basil, mint and figs; escargot, serrano ham and manchego baguette, and the steak frites. Through the excitement of the menu, I forget to order the french fries, but our server is quick to remind, since we are having a lot of greens, he suggests we substitute the side salads that come with the sandwich with the fries (he ignores to tell us that is extra though!)

The orders are in place pretty fast. Both the salad and the gazpacho are presented beautifully, we both find that the green tomato gazpacho is too little of a portion for $12. It barely covers one third of a wine glass. The day before, we had a large bowl of tomato soup at another Kimpton Hotel restaurant (in Rosslyn) for $8. This looks almost like a large amuse bouche. The Butter Lettuce is very pretty with the individual leaves drenched in tangy vinaigraitte and placed back in its original shape and sprinkled with fresh herbs, lovely tarragon giving it a french flair. The salad is very good, however the dressing is too tangy even for someone who likes a higher ratio of vinegar in her dressing like me. Just as we finish our appetizers, the sandwiches arrive, once again, beautifully presented in rectangular plates. The smoked duck reuben is a wonderful combination of duck that looks just like roast beef, sauerkraut, and well-balanced sauce on dark bread. It is very fulfilling, and definitely worth the $15. The only complaint I have is that the bread is either toasted for a little too long or retoasted. It is a little on the hard side, and I wish it was sliced just a little thinner. My companion is very happy with his BLT as well, so we exchange the second halves. The bread on the BLT is perfect with a softer inside, and a crunchy outside. Even though I love the idea of soft-shell crab BLT, it turns out that the crab is a little too small for this sandwich or most of it stayed on the other side. I can't taste much of the crab, but there is a bold BLT flavor in my mouth. Feeling full from the first sandwich, I finish my BLT as open faced, which gives me a chance to dig in the fries as well. The truffle fries are delicious, but I wish they came with a sauce, preferably mustard. They crave for a zippy and zesty touch of mustard, as opposed to poorly cooked fries asking for sweet ketchup. I'm full but I can't stop eating - too good to let it go to waste... And the sparkling water is a good companion!

As we approach the end of this lovely experience, I don't want to go... Yet... Especially after hearing that there is a lavender sorbet. I'm full yet hungry for more. How in the world can I leave now? I struggle with choosing between coffee and dessert... My companion is full but is intrigued by my interest. In the end, I cannot say no to daily selection of sorbets, which happen to be raspberry, buttermilk, and lavender. They also turn out to be much smaller scoops than the normal (the server calles them "glamorous scoops") but it is again a nice amuse bouche to clean the palate, and leave the mouth with a refreshing feeling. I wish buttermilk was more of a simple buttermilk sorbet as opposed to the lemony sorbet. I was expecting a creamy and almost sweet taste of milk, and lemon is too tangy for that expectation. Raspberry is perfectly balanced between refreshing taste of fresh berries and a tad of sweetness that gives you the perfect ending to a meal. Lavender is tenderly floral and perfectly cleansing without feeling like a medicine.

After such a perfect meal, I am still not ready to go. The colorful pillows on the seats are simply too tempting to just stay and take a nap. Thankfully, my fascination with the restaurant is not over yet. I hear they grow their own herbs and vegetables right outside, so I am on my foot to take a look. Outside is a bright, and comfortable terrace, the higher section with chairs and tables, and the lower section with sofas, coffee tables and cushions in the shade. I think I am ready for a nap now! The quiet and shady courtyard is the perfect escape from the busy city on the other side of the wall... Before I leave, I take a look at the herbs, lettuces, tomatoes and berries growing in pots. It is so wonderful to have tasted real food in the middle of the city, and to know that it was picked couple hours before it made it to my plate... As we walk out, I glance one more time to my newly found city-escape and whisper "I will be back..."

Food Heaven in VA: Wegman's

When friends need to be dropped off or picked up at Dulles, I always volunteer, for one reason: Wegman's! Those of us who live on the Maryland side jealously listen to our Virginian colleagues who lavishly talk about their Sunday shopping at Wegman's. When we glance at the fridge in the office, our boring turkey sandwiches, or tupperware leftovers look miserable next to those beautiful sushi trays or the pretty sandwiches made with cute little breads. So much so that, I generally end up going out to buy something else than look at my turkey sandwich who is suicidal after sitting too close to the pretty food with the great "Wegman's" logo on them.

This Wednesday, after breakfast (this is important, because if you go to Wegman's on an empty stomach, you are bound to leave your paycheck at the cashier, not to mention bringing hime more food than you can eat in a whole week even though you just tried to get a "taste" of a couple of things.

A trip to Wegman's should be enough to put a smile on any foodie's face, so with the low humidity and nice summer temperatures, I am in my car with the sunroof open, music on, and I even choose to bypass the tollroad and go through the neighborhoods to make it even more of an adventure.

When you get to Wegman's, the biggest challenge is to decide where to start... I always check out the produce isle first, the variety is good, but with my fridge packed with fresh local produce from the farmer's market, I am able to leave this section only with 2 nectarines that are on sale. Bahar 1 - Wegman's 0. Then, I head to the wine and cheese isle knowing this will be another section I can hold on. With the taste of the goat ricotta still in my mouth (read my blog entry on June 14, Reston Farmer's Market) and a cellar full of variety of nice summer wines, I am able to glance and march on. I love the selection and variety at the cheese section, however, I find the prices too high when compared to some other markets, plus when I can get fresh cheese in the summer, I tend to slow down my "packaged and shipped" cheese consumption to a minimum except for special cravings such as manchego or pecorino romano (to go on my fresh roasted vegetable pasta sauce). So: Bahar 2 - Wegman's 0, yay!

When I move on to the deli and bakery section, I know I'll be in trouble pretty soon, and as expected, I am mesmerized by the variety of offerings. The full-size cakes are too large for one person (fans cheering for Bahar!!!) and I find it hard to pay $5 for a small personal size. By the time I reach the bread/bagels section however, I reach for the bag without hesitation, and start filling: "Oh, those pretzel rolls look good, should I do the one with salt or without?" (I end up getting the one with the salt but after scraping off as many crystals as I can - I know this will go really well with the ham I scouted while passing the deli section, and I remember seeing a "real" dijon mustard jar in the fridge the night before) "Oooo, the asiago bagel has herbs on it, gotta try that for sure!" "Rosemary roll? Gotta have one of those! Fresh mozzarella, tomato, and basil drizzled with olive oil... yumm" "Uh-oh, normal size croissants that have a coppery glow as opposed to the fake and dull yellow tint, gotta get one of those!" "Hmmm, what is that bagel that seems to have a crust which almost looks like frosting? I don't want it if it is sweet" It turns out that the bagel is called "marco bagel" which makes me get it before I even know what it is (my beloved dog was named Marco,) then I find out that it is topped with a rice flour "frosting" for lack of a better term, which is supposed to make it crunchy. Score: Bahar 2, Wegman's 1. With a paper bag full of freshly baked breads, I am able to by pass another one of my favorite Wegman's things: vanilla muffin (light, heavenly, powdery -sugar that is- cloud-7 muffin). As I wave, a noise in my head lingers: "you will be back..." While I contemplate whether to go back or not, I reach cookie-vana, and I forget it all!!! Let me tell you how:

Last Christmas, when I was housesitting at another friend's place, I found those incredible apricot purses (that's what I call them). There were only 2, and they were the best sweet thing I had had in a long time. I'm not a cookie person, and am not fond of the big, sugary, and chocolately American cookie (except for when I am stressed out or haven't had anything to eat all day that is). I am more of a small, delicate, European cookie type of gal. In any case, those cookies were the perfect little cookie in my book, and I was sure I could get the recipe or the store name when my friends got back. To my disappointment, they didn't even know of those cookies (another friend was visiting the week before), so I was not only disappointed, but also embarassed to have asked about (and eaten) those cookies. Still, I never forgot those little cookies noone kknew of, and have been looking for a sign or a crumb hoping to trace them back to their origin...

Today, when I came across them watching me from behind the glass, I swear they winked at me (and maybe even said "hellooooooo! we are here!!!") I was so happy, I was ready to dance in front of the bakery window, but instead, I asked for a box of them patiently, and danced back to my cart...

It was still not lunch time, but the employees were bringing all the fresh Chinese foods, so I told myself I'd go look at the selections. One of the disadvantages of living alone is, you don't get to sample as many food as you like when you go out or order takeout. When I am crave for Chinese, I generally want to try about 10 things, but mostly endup with two or three. Here, I thought I could try a little bit of a number of things - big mistake! When you have 10-15 different selections, and "try"a spoonful of a couple, you have a full plate. I was very good until I saw the ribs, but then, I knew I had to make a plate... One rarely can get only one or two ribs, and even a half rack can be too much for someone who wants to fit in her shorts! In any case, I filled up my plate with a sampling of goodies and went upstairs to eat (and watch the scenery). Score: 2-2 now. I must admit it was good to sit down and satisfy my Chinese variety craving for a little while, but in the end, I wasn't too happy with the food overall. Skip the tasteless spring rolls. Ribs were overly sweet and fatty for my taste. But the brown rice was fresh and nutty, and the grilled veggies and the tofu was interesting. I think I'll stick to my neighborhood Chinese next time.

Eating at Wegman's is always a good idea, it stops you from giving in to many other temptations. For me, sushi was the biggest attraction and I almost gave in couple of times... but in the end I was able to walk away proudly and say "repeat after me: next time. next time. next time" Score: Bahar 3, Wegman's 2. Still, I had 2 more missions to go: that ham I saw on the way to the prepared foods section, and the hummus bar with olives. And of course, when you get hummus, you can not not have the Wegman's pita - in my opinion, it is one of the best packaged pita around. Fresh, tasty, and wholesome (wheat that is).

Before heading to the cashier, I checked out the beer selection (verdict: poor) and ended up with 3 bottles of flavored seltzer instead (score: Bahar's ahead)

By the time I was back home, I was ready to prepare a whole spread over the counter, but still was successful in pacing myself: first the pita bread with the two types of hummus (accompanied by crunchy pickles and moroccan cured olives) and a huge glass of seltzer water with lime. About half an hour later, the pretzel roll was toasting on the toaster (good way of warming up breads without changing their texture) as I impatiently waited with an assembly line of dijon mustard, honey cured ham, and thinly sliced cheddar cheese. Man, this sandwich was a such a perfect combination, I was already craving for another one after the fisrt taste (good thing I had bought only one roll)... Instead, I decided to put it on the menu for a European bistro restaurant I am working on. And of course, as soon as the sandwich was over, my heavenly apricot purses were warming up on the toaster... There is something about the first taste of desired and long-awaited foods in your mouth. When you bite into them, no matter where you are, you are transferred to the first time you had those foods, and you can't help but close your eyes hoping to freeze that moment for a couple seconds. It is like a loved one coming from a long journey... It is like hugging a friend... And sometimes, it is like rejoining a long gone but never forgotten lover... Mmm, mmm, mmm... That kind of feeling... Good thing I didn't give in to the beer or the wine at the store... Victory - should I declare?

Not yet... Because, the following morning, there was the croissant... The good croissant I have been on the search for years... Once you've been to Europe and had the real criossant, you know most of those crescent shaped things you see in the US are NOT croissants. They are dinner rolls, baked buttery breads, or large fatty globs. There is nothing like a fist size, buttery, light, and flakey croissant... but they don't exist in the US... Well, until now... OK, it still is not a Parisian croissant, but... even after a day in the plastic bag, when warmed up on top of the toaster, it is flakey, buttery (without the overly butter smell and the oil dripping in your hands) and pleasantly crunchy - halelujah!!! Why am I not going this place called Wegman's more often??? As a matter of fact, why am I not moving to Virginia??? is the only question I ask as I pair my buttery croissant with a fluffy scrambled egg (OK, that is not very French, but still, that is how I like my croissant) and a freshly brewed, robust, and flavor-full coffee. Hmm, is this heaven or what???

P.S. In case you were still keeping score, I gave up somewhere between the apricot purses and the croissant. As a matter of fact, I think, I am knocked out, or maybe thrown out with a red card. But you know what - it is well worth it! Oh by the way, I am not moving to Virginia... not because Wegman's is not worth it, but because I think the only way of staying in shape (both physically and financially) is by living away from Wegman's and going there for food indulgence (hey, it is still cheaper than a ticket to Europe, and there is no jet-leg involved, only a slight daze after the trip, which hangs on for a couple days...)

Farmer's Market in Reston

When I am house or dogsitting, one of the first questions I ask is "is there a farmer's market nearby?" Most of the time it comes even before the directions and conditions of the house. For my new assignment in Reston, I was very happy and excited to learn that there is a farmer's market on Saturday morning. This helps me with the food transport because most of the time my food bag is bigger than my suitcase, and since my duty started on Friday evening, I'd be fine with shopping and exploring the following day. The fact that this farmer's market had a website was a plus - in my experience, markets with wensites tend to have a higher number of vendors with a larger variety (www.restonfarmersmarket.com)

Saturday turned to be a lovely morning, so as soon as I was awake, I was ready to go explore. With the amount of cars and slight traffic turning into Anne Lake, I knew there'd be more than couple of stands... As soon as I found a parking spot and got out of the car, I saw a large lot covered with tents, and ran down the steps to the sights and smells of the produce and products.

My tendency is always to walk around first because you never know what you'll find later. In addition to the fresh produce and flowers, which I am used to seeing in smaller farmers markets in the area, this farmers market had fresh cheese, a number of baked goods (mostly for those with a sweet tooth), ethnic sauces, frozen cases of buffalo meat, crafts, jewelry, and photography. In addition, it was organized in an area by Lake Anne, so you stroll by the water and enjoy the day. I was pleasantly surprised to come across a non-chain, neighborhood cafe with live music, a second story bookstore, and a drugstore diner (yes, that is the best way to describe it - you enter through a drugstore, and order at the special counter, but the best part is, in addition to the typical egg and cheese sandwich, scrambled eggs. etc, they have the mexican-style breakfasts: breakfast burrito, huevos rancheros, etc. From all my travels in the West, this is what I crave for over the weekends, and when I'm having a good time. Having tasted a number of things at the farmers market, and noticing the rain clouds' approach, I decide to pass with a wow to return for a leisurely breakfast very soon. On the way back, I look at the photos at one stand, chat with the Peruvian guy about his unique crafts and glassware, and of course pick up the items I scouted on the way in: fresh snow pea shoots, heavenly peanut sauce, to die for goat ricotta, and the tangy "Let's Chaat" sauce. I also give in at the vegetable cookie stand (both the sweet potato and the lima bean cookies are great, just give it a try!), and find apple pies that resemble a big empanada at the stand with a variety of cakes. My bag is full, my tummy is hungry and I am excited about the flavors I am about to encounter, so I climb up the stairs fast, and almost run into the car. Once at home, I know I have 3 winners:

1) Goat ricotta - if you like goat cheese you must must must try this one. It is so creamy, sweet (not sugar sweet, just milk sweet) and fresh, I want to eat it off the tub... Fortunately, there are some great rosemary seasalt crackers in the pantry, so I dip and eat with my eyes closed and can't stop the "mmm, mmm, mmmmmmm......" sounds comming out of my mouth even though I am alone at home.

2) The yummy ginger sauce - for a fast and delicious salad try this: any kind of green mix (mesclun recommended, and of course I had to try the new pea shoots I found), carrot sticks cut in matchsticks, fresh peas blanched and shocked (or frozen peas washed), grilled chicken cut into cubes... and this yummy yummy, creamy peanut sauce... I'll be honest, as I was putting together the salad, I kept dipping baby carrots into the sauce and eating them because I couldn't wait for the meal. Then once the salad was over, I had to put another handful of peas in the leftover sauce not to let it go to waste... It was that good!

3) For dessert, as I was making coffee for the apple empanada, I noticed the goat ricotta tub sitting next to the "Let's Chaat" sauce and realized I still hadn't opened the jar. I was very satisfied with the salad, but was still craving the creaminess of the ricotta... So, as the coffee kept brewing, I couldn't stop myself from reaching for a plain cracker, smearing it with the ricotta, and topping it off with the "Let's Chaat" sauce... One more time, I was in the "mmm, mmm, mmm" world... (the following night, I also tried the sauce on grilled chicken and that was yummy as well, especialy if you make sure the chicken is hot and juicy) I was so happy that I decided to postpone the apple pie to a later coffee hour.

In the end, when I warmed up the apple empanada, it was a very good companion to the coffee, but I think the above 3 are my top 3 picks from the Reston Farmer's Market. Now, my biggest regret is not having bought more of the goat ricotta (about a pound maybe?) and the ginger sauce. Will I be able to wait another week?

A Great Quote

Today I heard a great quote and wanted to share:

"LIFE IS NOT ABOUT WAITING FOR THE STORM TO PASS. IT IS ABOUT DANCING IN THE RAIN"

For myself, I'd probably change it a little and say "it is about getting in the car and driving to where you wanna go despite the rain!" No matter what suits you, go out there and enjoy the ride (or the dance)!

I'd Rather Be In...

Just two weeks ago, we were complaining that the weather was not warm enough for May, and that we hadn't had much of a spring. Suddenly, we're huffing and puffing with temperatures and humidity we don't see until July and August. Like many other people, I am not ready for it at all! This is the time when we're supposed to be out and about enjoying the outdoors! Not stuck with A/C indoors, unable to even enjoy our newly cleaned or polished outdoor furniture, brushed and prepared grill, and newly planted flowers. As opposed to the previous years, we can't even go to the mall, because we are afraid of spending money at shopping, or even worse, on the way to shopping with gas prices reaching $4 per gallon (not that I've ever been a big fan of malls, but it is a good option for many people when they can no loner stand watching the fan on the ceiling).

Normally, I don't like to travel with the crowds during peak travel times and since heat signifies peak holidays, busy airports, full planes, cranky kids, and tired airline/hotel employees to me, heat always meant staying behind and dreaming of places I'd rather be, or making plans for the fall. However, since the heat is here earlier than usual, I've started my travel dreams earlier than usual as well... Here is what is on top of my "I'd rather be in..." list:

- Thailand and New Zealand: I love both of those countries and how much they offer, so I am always interested in going back in any kind of weather, economic, or political situation... I'd rather be in Thailand or New Zealand...

- Colorado: Two years ago when I quit my job in June and was looking for a place to get back to my own self, a friend of mine suggested Colorado, which turned out to be the perfect place in the whole planet. I loved the open spaces, the big blue sky, the mountains, the dry and comfortable temperatures, all the activities one can get involved in from biking to water rafting, and of course the people - the friendly, approachable, active, happy people. I think for the rest of my life, I will crave for Colorado in June since I know how amazing it is. And also because I owe so much to every person, every tree, every river, every mountain and every rock for making me feel so alive once again. I'd rather be in Colorado now...

- Belgium: This little country also has a special place in my heart as it was the first foreign county I visited. Even though I went back twice after my first trip, I've never seen Belgium in the summer, and I'd love to see the Grand Place full with people, with at least some sun shining on the buildings and its wonderful people. I'd rather be in Belgium eating mussels, frites, fondue, waffles, waterzooi, and drinking wonderful Belgian beer...

- Amsterdam: This city has always fascinated me. What inspiress so many great artists? What starts such a great trading company that goes to the edges of the world in search of goods not found anywhere else? What makes people so creative and inquisitive, and possibly so civilized and thoughtful? And of course, how does it feel to look at a Dutch masters' brush stroke and see how a simple stroke comes together with others to form a unique masterpiece? I'd rather be in Amsterdam now...

- Peru: I will be fascinated by Peru and how mystical it is until I go there and see it with my own eyes. The modern life in Lima, the history in Cuzco, the natural beauty combined with the unknown in Macchu Picchu, the local market in Pisac, the trails, roads and rivers that tie it all together, and the indigenous culture that surrounds it all makes Peru a unique place on my list. When you add the local cuisine (did you know potatoes originate in Peru? They even have a Potato Museum in Lima), which is considered the best in South America, on top of everything else, I am ready to fly tomorrow! I'd rather be in Peru...

- Ireland and Scotland: Rain makes those two countries green, but I understand they are not as much fun to visit under the rain, especially when you are driving on the left-hand side of the road looking for a tiny sign that is not in English! I'm an outdoors person, and from what I know, I'd like exploring Ireland and Scotland by walking the castles, cliffs, gardens, small towns, and cities without having to hide under a hood or an umbrella. Summer also seems to be the best time for locals to be out and about, going at it in their own ways, and enjoying the "craic." Therefore, I'd rather be in Ireland... and I'd rather be in Scotland.

The list is by far not complete... As a matter of fact, there probably are about 180 more countries to add, but for now, I think I am ready to focus on where my heart lies and where I can see more of a local life without large amounts of tourists. So, it is time to dream about what I'll do when I get to these places. Until then, good night Thailand... Good night New Zealand... Good Night Colorado... Good Night Belgium... Good night Amsterdam... Good Night Peru... Good Night Ireland... Good Night Scotland...