Thursday, September 25, 2008

A Little Piece of England in DC

When the economy tanks, we tend to put a hold on our travel plans, and switch to a wait-and-see mode. Yet, for a traveler like me, it is not a good enough reason to stop exploring. It's even a better reason to find ways of "going away" without leaving town. And if I get to use my dollar instead of a strong currency like the euro, even better. So today, I am headed to England...

I heard the arrival of the first Gastro Pub to DC a while back when the owners were still working on putting it together, but New York, Boston and couple other cities already have their own versions. Even Gordon Ramsay opened one in the Northeast during a recent "Kitchen Nightmares" episode (Fox on Thursdays at 9pm)

Common Wealth opened about a month ago, but knowing well that new restaurants need a little bit of time to work out the operations, I postponed my visit, and at the first opportunity after a month, I took the metro to Columbia Heights (Green Line).

If you get out on the Western exit, the Common Wealth Gastro Pub is literally steps away, right behind the Five Guys. If you turn around and walk to the main street, you may never find it as the neighborhood is not very familiar with it yet. We asked the policemen standing on the corner of the same block and they had no idea (note to the owners on local marketing efforts).


Common Wealth has an attractive patio with nice picnic tables and umbrellas. However the real Gastro Pub ambience is inside. With the bar with the TV turned on to cricket, a black and white Union Jack on the wall, leather banquettes lined along the wall with dark wood tables and chairs, the place has a very British feel. It also has plenty of natural light, thanks to the large windows and pleasant but not overwhelming continental style lighting.




If you have any doubts about where this place is from, just one look at the menu will make things clear: ploughman's lunch, bangers and mash, mashed peas with mint. Or, like me, you will get more confused: "Frog in A Puff" "Potted Pork" "Scottish Egg" which will require practically interrogating your waiter. Fortunately, very friendly Keenan is serving us, and with most tables being empty, he has plenty of time to answer my never-ending questions. He is also very timely with the very good bread - which I can't stop eating, and eventually have to ask where the bread is from (Lyon Bakery in Maryland, they said, but it turns out the bakery is in DC). The beer menu is interesting with a good selection of British drafts and bottles, as well as interesting local microbrews. As soon as I take a sip from my "Victory Golden Monkey" I know I made the right choice. It is deliciously hoppy with a touch of sweetness and nice body, which reminds me of more expensive Belgian abbey style ales. As the alcohol in the beer kicks into my brain cells the choice from the menu becomes much easier, and I go with the "Ploughman's Lunch" while my companion finds it hard to turn down a chicken shepherd's pie. The "Trimmings" (or side dishes in our English) are too appealing to pass even though we leave the real adventure to next time and stick to safer options: "Cauliflower Gratine" and "Mashed Peas with Mint" - after all I am introducing my companion to British food (or the fact that there is more to it than fish and chips).


Our order comes out pretty fast (right as we are finishing our second plate of bread) and looks pretty good. The Shepherd's pie has a thin and flaky crust covering the perfectly chickeny stew with a feel good taste of real chicken. The ploughman's lunch is three thick slices of fresh french baguette, well-cured and seasoned Irish ham, two small pieces of cheddar, a small square of Stilton, a spoon of pickled cabbage cut-up like coleslaw, and think slices of pickles. For seasoning, there is a dollop of sharp mustard, and a dollop of prune puree which goes well with both the Stilton and the ham. If it wasn't for the sides, I'd call this a nice afternoon snack or a good appetizer - which is a good value at $9. It is a surprise that this dish is not part of the regular menu as this would make a perfect accompaniment to an after work beer, and great to share with friends, too. All the ingredients are considered the staple of the British kitchen so I am not sure why this dish is a "lunch special" - I hope it becomes a regular item soon...

The coleslaw pickle is fresh with no aftertaste, or unpleasant vinegary flavor. The ham is perfectly balanced, and the presentation is pretty on a nice board which looks like wood but is plastic in reality. In the end, I am very happy with my lunch especially with the accompanying sides. My only complaint is the unexciting plastic tasting cheddar which tastes as if it came from the supermarket shelf, and I wish the sides were a little bit bigger. They are gone by the time I am ready for more.. (but the good news is they are gone, not a bit left of the Cauliflower Gratin or the Mushy Peas) In my opinion, the cauliflower could have used a little bit more seasoning, and most people might think it is a little undercooked even though I like mine on the "al dente" side.

As I take the final sip from my beer I hardly contain myself from smacking my lips and possibly ordering another one. It could make a great dessert, yet possibly send me to siesta right away, plus I am still interested in trying at least one sweet item so I ask for the dessert menu (which are called "Puddings"), the only other place "pudding" is mentioned is for breakfast, and means sausage. Despite the name, desserts are not all puddings, good enough reason to test what's coming out of the Gastro Pub kitchen. I end up ordering the maple tart, which is nice but probably baked too early in the morning or was leftover from the day before. Taste-wise it is ok and the whipped cream balances out the sweetness of the maple, however, the crust is a little too chewy and no longer flaky. The very good coffee makes up for it and before I can order another beer, I am glad to be on my way!
Overall I enjoyed Common Wealth very much and would love to go back over the weekend or in the evening with friends so we can decipher more of the menu items and share a good pub grub. One thing about pubs are they don't feel that "pubby" when they are empty (and this place is practically empty at lunch). Meeting new people, squeezing in through the bar to order another drink, and getting a piece of British humor is all part of the experience - and I am looking forward to it - next time!

Common Wealth: 1400 Irving Street, Washington, DC 20010, Phone: (202)265-1400

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