A Walk in San Juan

It is so much fun to wake up in a new town... Even though I've been on this island for a while, and walked the streets of San Juan on late Saturday night, it is a different thing to wake up to a morning where locals simply go their ways. After checking e-mails and taking a shower, I am on my way. The receptionist recommends that I take the local bus which passes from in front of the hotel. She tells me it is 50 cents, so I am game. It is always fun traveling with locals.

As I walk to the bus stop, I notice a supermarket, so I check it out, just to see how things look like. There are many items and brands which we see in the US, the packages and signs are in Spanish. Of course things are piled and shelved a little differently, and there is a fast-food/take-out section a little different, but this being mid morning the trays are mostly empty, and I am not very willing to spend a lot of time in a supermarket that doesn't look too different from what I have back home. So I head back to the bus-stop, and once I get back on the bus, I am in the port area of Old San Juan within 8 minutes. Plus I got to listen to a surveyor ask questions to some of the passengers, the bus system seems to be revizing their routes/activities.

A BREAKFAST TO REMEMBER

Once I figure out where I am, I head directly to the information booth, remembering it from the other night. It is already hot but breezy, feels good... Plus the blue sky and the colors of the street life put a smile on my face - this is a good place to be at the moment! The lady at the information desk is helpful but not too enthusiastic, probably not too happy to work on a public holiday. After getting the directions, I head to the breakfast place I've been waiting for: La Bonboneria. The narrow cobblestone streets, the people opening the doors of th shops and rearranging the merchandise in a leisurely way while thy chat along with neighborhood shopkeepers remind me of Southern Europe, particularly Portugal... Once I am at Bonboneria, just looking at the shopwindow, I know I am at the right place. There are at least 15 types of buns, rolls, cookies... but I am here for the famous "Marbella" the soft buttery rolls dusted with powdered sugar. Within minutes, I've ordered my "little chinese" (chino pequeno) - orange juice is named this way in Puerto Rico, I wonder why... I make a note to find out, but for now, I am waiting for my "Marbella con mantequilla" the roll with butter and toasted breifly before being dusted with powdered sugar. And of course un cafe con leche - just like the locals do. But, being mid morning, the place seems to have more non-locals than I imagined, the family behind me is having scrambled eggs, coke, french toast, and there is another couple taking photos of the 100-year old coffee machine, which, was imported from Cuba, and despite its date and origin, still works! Couple minutes later, I discover that if I don't find anything interesting in San Juan, the trip is worth it for the Marbella. Mmm, mmm, this is good! I slow down, cause I don't want it to end... But I need to hit the streets to go see the fort, and also now, to walk off the loaded breakfast! Incredibly, the breakfast was only $5.25, and it was so well worth it!

KEEP WALKING ... AND SMILING

Once I am back on the streets, I am ready to explore each and every corner of this historic town. There is so much to see so I stop every couple steps, and wish I could share it with more people... which means my camera comes out to record those moments - to be shared with people around the world. Pretty soon I find out that there is a lot to record: the colorful buildings, interesting doors, statues, squares, flowers, trees reaching for the blue sky, the ocean waiting at the end of the alley, or peeking through the corner. This turns out to be a town, even though I have a rough idea of where I am going, where I fold the map and place in my pocket, simply to leave the discovery to my instincts, and the serendipity of my soul. After about 67 photos, I am astounded by a wonderful view: standing on the circle where a monument is erected for the 500th year of the discovery of Puerto Rico by Christopher Columbus, I am looking at a vast green grass full of families and people, beyond that you can see the dome of a historic, possibly religious building, beyond that the sparkling ocean, and an island with palm trees in the distance. Many people are flying kites taking advantage of the holiday, and the wind. It is a wonderful bonding experience for children and parents, and watching it is a romantic activity for young lovers... In the background, the 400 year old fort stands strong, as if reaching with its arms to embrace all these people it has protected for so many centuries. It seems like a scene from a movie, or from a postcard. I sit and enjoy for a number of minutes, and I can't stop taking photos...

A WALK IN TIME - EL MORRO

I am normally into history, but on such a beautiful day, I am not willing to spend much time inside the dark alley where it talks about the history of this fort. After a brief review, I am headed to the incredible views, which get prettier at every new angle. I snap, snap, snap, in order to memorialize the perfection of the day. People smiling... people laughing... sun shining... the waves happily crashing on the rocks as if to pat them on the back in order to say "once again, we did it, my friend! You and I, here for so many years, we've created a perfect day, for crowds to enjoy..."

Without getting too much into detail, the fort started as a protection point, and grew in time with various forces on the island. Eventually, after 400-year Spanish domination, US was able to overcome the barriers, and come conquer this island after the Spanish-American war, and of course the fort played a major role in it. The nice thing is, it is part of the U.S. National Park system, so it is somewhat protected, and hopefully repaired.

Note: Even if you don't need to, go to the bathroom in the fort, it has one of the best views!

After walking the fort for about 2 hours, I am ready for another snack, and I know exactly where my legs are taking me: back to the port area where I saw a cart, stocked with local snacks. And there is a kiosk for beer right behind it. I pick 2 local snacks for less than 3 bucks, and a local beer - Medalla. I find that local beers always match the local foods the best, and this time it seems to be the same. The thin wafer-like snack made of ground fish, flour and spices fried in oil reminds me of the Native American fry-bread. And then I try the mashed plantains shaped like a big croquette and filled with minced meat - a little oily, but still delicious. I watch more locals purchase similar items and go their own ways - I must have selected the right place. I sit at the local kiosk watching the see and enjoying the moment...